By Amie Ferris-Rotman

MOSCOW (Reuters Life!) - Cossacks, folklore and bright red colours were all the rage at Moscow Fashion Week that showcased a nation in the grip of patriotic fervour.

Russian models are often the face of Western luxury brands loved by the Russian elite, but it was the passion for nation that took centre stage on the catwalk over the last five days.

Set up 14 years ago to compete with its European counterparts, Moscow Fashion Week paraded looks from 70 designers for 120,000 guests at the city's Gostiny Dvor, an elegant revamped 19th century exhibit hall near the Kremlin.

All but two of the designers were Russian and many relied on Mother Russia as the muse for their collections.

"My greatest inspiration is Russia. I've tried my whole life to maintain my Russianness in my work as it gives me great pleasure to produce collections that reveal where I am from," Slava Zaitsev, Russia's foremost designer who used to dress Soviet party elite, told Reuters after his show.

"I am, after all, a Russian artist," the 69-year-old said, dressed in black leggings and a traditional Russian shirt with gold embroidery and a flattened collar.

Zaitsev's models danced along the catwalk to Russian love songs, wearing Cossack-style trousers tucked in to leather boots and amber medallions.

A wave of patriotism has surfaced in Russia since President Vladimir Putin came to office eight years ago, producing a pro-Kremlin youth group and the re-emergence of national holidays.

Kremlin critics say it has produced a darker side too, contributing to an aggressive foreign policy and a suspicion towards outsiders.

RUSSIAN DREAMS

Though Moscow Fashion week is virtually unknown in the greater fashion world -- attracting little international interest -- Russian TV stars, Soviet crooner Joseph Kobzon, pop singer Natalya Korolyova and her stripper husband Tarzan arrived for the opening night, wearing clothes by featured designers.

Valentin Yudashkin, another designer from Soviet times who also has shops in Europe, opened the week with his collection, of bold red suits, oversized smocks and lace bodices.

One young designer called her new collection 'Gogol' after the Russian writer, with a quote from his work on her label, while another had bright square-cut shirts with images by the Russian avant-garde artist Malevich.

"Why shouldn't we show our traditions? Why should we wear only Western clothes?" Sergei Zverev, a Russian stylist and TV personality dressed in pointy platform shoes and wearing bright eyeshadow, told Reuters backstage.

Designer Chapurin -- he is known only by his family name -- called his collection "Russian Dreams."

It featured women's silk suits reminiscent of World War Two. "It's an illusion of the war style... to inspire and help one dream about Russia," he said.

Young designer Marianna Rosenfeld had an array of jackets with silk screens of Boris Berezovsky -- a Russian tycoon who lives in London -- the words "Secret Agent" were stamped across the backs of the shirts.

Berezovsky, a vocal Kremlin critic, has been accused by the Russian media of working for British intelligence, which he has denied.

"It's not our goal to attract foreign designers, we are here to develop the Russian fashion business for Russia," Moscow Fashion Week's spokeswoman Anna Vorotnikova said.