1 / 8
The bluffer's guide to bespoke suits
Shawl lapel

What to Read Next

The bluffer's guide to bespoke suits

28 November 2012

Are you a bespoke suit rookie? We tell you how to talk the talk.

In the end, what separates the men from the boys, is suiting up bespoke, instead of off the rack. But in case 40 S sounds like a soon-to-be-released iPhone to you, and Angelina Jolie's leg-baring red carpet posing is the most familiar you are with slits – congratulations, you're a bespoke suits rookie. To sound more veteran, less virgin, here's how to talk the talk through your first time with a fancy bespoke tailor.


The L-Word: Being down with the lingo is key in order to trick your tailor into believing you've already been there, or done that. Use lingo such as “sleeve head”, when describing the upper part of your jacket's sleeves, and when you start talking lapels – not, “collars” - that will also make for the right kind of first impression. While you're at it, make sure you're specific regarding the type of lapel you want – choosing between a notch lapel, peak lapel, diamond lapel, or shawl lapel for your jacket.

Know your wools: A wool bespoke suit remains an all-time classic, and particularly during the fall/winter season, it is the must-have bespoke attire. When it comes to the wool of a tailored suit, it's all about the S numbers which indicate the fineness and quality of a wool, making 80s less fine than 100s for example. The most popular types of fine wool are 160s, 180s and 200s. And when it comes to the type of wool the ultimate taste-makers choose for their bespoke wear, lama wool, or the extremely rare (read: extremely pricey) vicuna wool is what gets them going.

Slit-ettiquette: The slit – or vents as they are officially called – should never be requested if you're planning on wearing your bespoke suit as evening wear. Nonetheless, they can can keep your suit in better shape at the the office, when sitting down or putting your hands into your pockets for example. Whether you go for a single vent or a double vent in the back, is completely up to you. 

The perfect fit: Ask for an unstructured suit – that is, loosely tailored without padding - if you're looking for that second-skin experience. For something slightly more trendy, go slim-fit. As far as the trousers are concerned, be clear about whether you want them regular leg, narrow leg, or wide leg.  

An eye for detail:
Make sure your tailor makes the sleeves of your jacket slightly shorter so at least 1cm of your shirt can come out, and ask for handmade buttonholes to sound like the pro you aren't. Speaking of buttons, go for either a two-button or three-button model for the jacket. Otherwise, ask for a double-breasted jacket, or doppio petto as the Italians call them. Finally, specify whether you like your pants cuffed or not, your shoulders with or without padding, and your seams visible or invisible.

-Declan Eytan


 

Banks Are Worried Homeowners Will Do This.

Homeowners are surprised and furious. If you owe less than $625,000 on your home, you better read this.

How Older Men Tighten Their Skin

Men, reduce the look of wrinkles, sagging skin and fine lines with this affordable and effective skin tightening treatment without leaving your home.

Read This Before You Buy Medigap Plan F

Plan F is the most popular Medicare Supplement plan, but there's another Medigap option you should consider.

What Are The Pros & Cons Of A Reverse Mortgage?

More Americans are accessing their home equity to support their retirement years. Speak with a professional and see what you may qualify for today.

9 Cards for People Who Have Great Credit

What card offers up to 5% cash back? And which one offers 24/7 concierge service? See the best credit cards of 2016. Apply online, quickly & easily.

Is your insurance comp Laughing Behind Your Back?

New Studies Show that if you drive less than 55 miles a day you can save a ton on auto insurance.

Kid sleep troubles email series for moms

We get it. We’ve been there. Sign up for our email track to learn how to handle kids who won’t go to sleep or won’t stay in bed.

Heartburn Facts

Read About Heartburn Facts From TUMS. Check Out Heartburn History, Who Gets Heartburn and More.

Reconnect With Your High School Friends

Classmates® has the largest directory of high school class lists. Remember the good times and reconnect to create new memories.

VA Mortgage Rates In 2016

VA Rates as Low as 2.75% (3.028% APR) 15 Year Fixed. Exclusive For Veteran & Military Takes 1 Min!

Personal Loan Rates as low as 5.99% APR

$25,000 for $742/mo. 3 yr repayment, $0 down payment. No obligation quotes. Get up to 5 offers in minutes. Quotes are free! Start loan request now.

Hurry, Don't Be Late For This Very Important Deal!

Get 4 Disney Movies For $1 With Membership. See Details. Exclusive Titles, Merchandise, Offers & Discounts. Plus, Free Shipping On Your Initial Order!

Insane Navy Seal Flashlight, should it be banned?

The Military has recently released technology that is now available to the public. Get yours before they run out - Limited Supply!

Stop Paying Too Much For Your Prescriptions.

Drug prices vary wildly between pharmacies. GoodRx finds the lowest prices and discounts. Compare prices, print free coupons & save up to 80%.